Intro

Sarah the Finn unearthing French Guiana
Showing posts with label holiday. Show all posts
Showing posts with label holiday. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Camp Canopée


Being Finnish and growing up in the suburbs of Finland meant that I spent an awful lot of time in the forest and up trees. To be honest, the most vivid childhood memories I have from Finland (before we moved abroad) are more or less all from the outdoors. Whether it was climbing and swinging in trees or swimming and sauna-ing (where I come from this is a valid verb) at our summer cottage, the outdoors was always where I felt most at home. Being out in nature, as you can imagine, is thus something that still is a very important part of my life.

So...  my birthday was way back in October and Anthony had promised to take me for a trip in the trees as a birthday present. I didn't really know what to expect from it. What I had understood was that we were going to have some sort of treehouse-type experience. I wasn't really sure what to expect from it but I was really excited all the same. It's an organized trip by a local small organization called Camp Canopée, follow the link if you're looking for more info http://www.canopee-guyane.com/ .


So one weekend in May we set out from Kourou on a 2 hour boat trip up the river. It was a rainy morning and we were both a little apprehensive about whether or not the weather was going to hold up. Nobody wants to spend a weekend in the trees in torrential rainfall. Luckily however, it cleared up nicely.


The boat or pirog, as it is locally called, is a long-wooden boat, seating three-abreast at maximum width. We loaded in the gear up front, including large ice-boxes carrying food for the whole group for the weekend. And in we popped, little sardines on a wooden stick!


The eager crew heading out. Our captain was extremely skilled at dodging the lolling trees and branches which floated along the river. There is really no "coastline" or sandbank to speak of usually, it is just vegetation. This means that trees basically get pushed into the river by its fellow comrades behind it - "Off you go Billy!" SPLASH.


We did get rained on from time to time but that is only to be expected; we were, after all, traveling into a breathing sponge of humidity. A pair of wild Macaws actually flew right above us. If you haven't ever heard a Macaw screech, check it out because these parrots make quite a racket! I took it to be the welcome cry of the jungle.

About half-way up the river we came across this golden sand-patch just when the sun was coming out. "Palm Beach à gauche!" Our bohemian tour-guide shouted.


A naturally formed smooth sand-patch was a welcome break... and incidentally, an apt moment to empty the boat from leaking water - all quite standard practice we were assured. Something to always be weary of in Guyane. Standard practice often takes on the sense of "we'll just see how it goes. I'm sure it will be fine".

It seems funny to think about how remote these places actually are. Standing on a teeny tiny beach two hours up an amazonian river in French Guiana. A rather unconventional weekend trip!


We landed our pirog beside a small wooden pier, complete with this makeshift wall, designed to keep the edge from collapsing I suppose.


Just casually heading up to our "rooms" :)


There were two different tree-house sections in which to sleep in, linking the two was this suspended footbridge.


No treehouse would be complete without a giant dream-catcher.


I'm no architect but it looks sound-enough to me! :) Can you imagine building this, in the middle of the forest, without any modern use of cranes or such. That's only after you've transported the building materials by boat. Very impressive!


The entire camp had a lovely peaceful ambiance to it.


I mean who wouldn't enjoy doing the dishes when you're looking at this?


Not to mention doing your business up in the trees. Talk about natural ventilation! (The documentation ought to be complete, so I had to include this picture - apologies to the prudish!).


Now, at night, the place really comes to life! Candles are set up all around the camp, in the trees, down below and everywhere. I don't know if you can even imagine it, but... it is utterly magical.


So far, I'm feeling right at home in the trees! ... Anthony likes to pretend he is not scared of heights, but really he is. I'm thinking... YES! I found SOMETHING he is scared of! :D

We had a wonderful lunch and then set out for the days trip - a hike in the surrounding forest. We had the choice of a small, medium or long hike, and luckily we were with an athletic group so we did the long walk. And although we were not the luckiest, groups have sited Macaws, snakes and all sorts of animals... but unfortunately, we did not manage to see much. A lizard. And maybe heard a forest-dwelling wild chicken creature... but we weren't actually sure... so there.


We saw plenty of different types of trees and plants though, so it was a very nice walk all-in-all.

Like this "little" guy. Finger for scale :)

After our hike, we travelled back to the camp via (a very unstable) canoe. But neither of us fell in, and I dare se we managed the two-person wooden canoe paddling technique quite well :)

A delicious dinner, complete with acoustic music was waiting as we arrived back to camp. 


And there we go, our five-star beds for the night!

Next morning I was up bright and early. I figured what a perfect spot to go and salute the sun with some invigorating morning yoga by the river. Obviously I was not very deep into my meditation as Anthony managed to disrupt me mid-session.



The Kourou river... et moi



Now for the real fun - tree-climbing and zip-lining through the trees!


Getting geared up... this stuff is very tight... but I gathered better that than a flattened Sarah.


First zip-line down. One more to go... but first, up we go!

 

So yeah. I was maybe not the most fantastic climber ever. But looking down a 40m drop when you're just attached to this one line (which you hope to God is not going to break on you) is really REALLY unhelpful. You are also regretting that extra Nutella that you spread on your pancake that morning for fear it is definitely going to be the tipping point and you are most probably going to fall to your death in the middle of the Amazon rainforest because of it. 


Yup, a 42m climb upwards. Heave!



Here is a clip of Anthony reaching the top of the platform. It gives you a sense of what we were going through.




Finally up, we could enjoy the sights of the canope from all around. Of course, safety first! I wonder what happens if you put three people on the bridge O.o


It's ok to look down... once you're attached.


You do end up treading carefully, just incase you would put something out of place and the whole structure would collapse.


Taking the final ladder up to the very top.

and now all there is to be done is enjoy the view!

Coming down the zip-line was absolutely nothing compared to going down it. Now I've been mountaineering in Scotland and even gone skydiving, so I'm not a complete virgin with heights. But. And it's a big but, that initial swing off the ledge, resting your weight into the harness and the single rope... terrifying. Absolutely every instinct is telling you to not step off that ledge.

I had understood our trusted French-speaking guide the whole while but in that moment, when he was explaining what to do. Just no. Brain failure. I spoke no French. Anthony had to translate whatever he told me. A part of me was absolutely sure I was going to die there. Let go of the wrong rope and fall splat to my death. Needless to say, everything went just fine. Anthony and I descended side by side facing each other and everything was fine. It was quite romantic actually, in a sort of extreme-sense :D

 I do however have a new found respect for extreme-mountaineers and tightrope walkers. And a small subtle message: "You people are CRAZY!" There. I'm done.

Now I joke about it, but really it was a fantastic experience. This memory is certainly going to stick around for a long time to come! At least until Anthony takes me on some other life threatening adventure.

On our way back we got to zip-line straight into the camp. Here is a clip of Anthony coming in.




Portrait of a boy in a boat.

Couldn't have asked for a better (or more original) birthday gift!

Thank you munchkin! ;)




Saturday, June 6, 2015


Guadeloupe!


Back in March of 2015 Anthony and I, together with my parents and my oldest brother and my niece, went for a get-away holiday to the Island of Guadeloupe. It's French territory but located in the southern Caribbean Sea. Guadeloupe is just a two-hour plane ride away from French Guiana and although very expensive to get to, is just drop-dead gorgeous. Surrounded by turquoise water and clean white sandy beaches with that French Kreole Carribbean feel to it... ah, it's positively charming. The island is also shaped like a butterfly; need I really say more?


The island is divided into two "halves", Basse-Terre on the west and Grand-Terre towards the east. We stayed in a hotel based on Base-Terre, which is less inhabited than Grand-Terre because of its mountainous and rocky terrain. This side of the island has been kept more "untouched" than its eastern counterpart. So for us nature lovers, it was the natural choice.



So, Anthony and I have never really been on a real holiday together. It was going to be a first for us. Right. So I like to think I know Anthony pretty well by now. Which means I am aware that he likes to keep active. What I wasn't aware of, was that he likes to keep extra active on holidays. See, when I go on holiday I like to relax, kick my feet up a bit. I was imagining reading in the sun, drinking fancy pineapple juices with curly straws by the beach... this sort of thing.


 At least IN-BETWEEN keeping active. I mean, don't get me wrong; I like to snorkel and get out there and discover new stuff too. But not at 7 o'clock first thing in the morning. It's just less appealing before I've had breakfast. I am not even jesting here though, in the five days we had on our resort, I got him to lie down for about a good 15 minutes.

Good thing he's resourceful as well as (abnormally) active.


I just love this picture. It describes Anthony perfectly. There I was joyfully in the sun when I thought to myself. Right, I'll just go have a look, see what he is up to. I walk across to the other side of the resort when I come across this placard and see Anthony packing up his kite-surfing gear. 




He didn't die, so I got over it.


The little village just down the road offered some local sights and excellent dining. The architecture varied quite a bit from Guiana actually. Bright coloured buildings with hand-painted pieces were all around. I also found that the evening light in Guadeloupe was fantastic for taking shots and tinted everything with that warm Caribbean feeling. Like the first taste of rum warming up your insides. 





Yes, those are real shells... the size of your hand :)



Food couldn't possibly taste bad when you're looking at this.



On one of our days we travelled to Saint -Francois, the very tip of the other half of the island on Grand-Terre. The sea was blue and beautiful but fierce. The rocks are almost black in colour and form sharp edges when they crumble.



A man and the sea.

We have always been sea-lovers in my family but waves in Finland do not reach this height. It was really enlightening seeing the sea from such a different perspective. The sea is not only extremely salty, but vigorous too. It demanded attention.


We took it upon ourselves to hike up the little side-path to reach the viewing sight at the top of the hill.



The view with the island La Désirade in the backdrop.



Up top!

Next stop, boating and snorkeling!



Because we're a big boating family taking a day trip out to sea was a must. Luckily, Anthony managed to both research and book us an all-inclusive private boat trip. We were expecting it to be nice, for sure. But we got much more than we bargained for! Like snorkeling around an old shipwreck. We headed out from the port through an alley of mangrove trees and headed out towards the blue. It felt great to be out at sea again after such a long while. 


Once we navigated to the shipwreck, Anthony (of course) was first in. The rest of us, followed suit shortly after. Because the ship-wreck was really just under the surface of the water, the bottom of the wreck being at about 5m depth, it was easy to view the fish and other sea-life.
 



Everybody was fantastically impressed.



Woop woop - Thumbs up!


Second stop was a tiny island close by the wreck. The entire coastline is actually protected by a natural coral barrier reef. But sadly, because of the strong sea, we were unable to take the boat out to see it.

Anthony, determined, snorkeled out to view it. Naturally.
 

As if the trip hadn't already been wonderful enough, the last stop was really the cherry on top. A small island close to the coastline sported a naturally formed knee-deep walkway straight out towards open sea. Taking a stroll, essentially in the middle of the sea, seemed almost fictitious.



Happy faces all around!



But it wasn't finished yet. Hungry anyone?

The metal lining of old car-tires worked as barbecues and the smell of rum-dipped banane flambé was in the air. The shed-like structure was simply standing in the water and worked as kitchen and dining room all at once.


Our captain preparing our dinner in our sea-side saloon. Unreal.



I've certainly never had dinner whilst having a foot spa. A one in a million 2-in-1 experience!

You can trust the French that dinner came complete with wine, baguette, rum and even coffee with dessert. Absolutely unforgettable.


Beautiful and true to itself.

Thank you Guadeloupe!